Jewel Cave National Monument History and Geology

Jewel Cave is a fascinating place not only because it is the second longest cave in the world (July 2011) but because of the geologic and human history that is part of the story. Jewel Cave National Monument is located just 13 miles west of Custer South Dakota on Highway 16.

The story begins millions of years ago when the Black Hills did not exist. It is believed that the entire area was flat and under a shallow sea. Over many years sand, skeletal remains, and other debris settled on the bottom of the sea and created a layer of limestone about 450 feet thick. This layer is known as the Paha Sapa limestone formation or layer. Paha Sapa is a Lakota word that means hills of black or Black Hills.

Over time a large mass of molten rock began to push up against the layer of limestone. The large mass cooled forming granite. The granite is found in several areas of the Black Hills. Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse are both carved from granite. This granite uplift created cracks and fractures that would become the passageways of Jewel Cave. Geologist have differing theories about the exact times and events that occurred. Some information from the National Park Service is available at http://www.nps.gov/jeca/naturescience/geology.htm.

Jewel Cave was not discovered until 1900 when two brothers (Frank and Albert Michaud - http://www.nps.gov/jeca/historyculture/index.htm) happen to be riding horse through Hell Canyon 13 miles west of Custer South Dakota. They used dynamite to enlarge the opening they had found so they could enter the cave for the first time. They filed a mining claim call the Jewel Tunnel Load, however they never discovered anything of value, only calcite crystals that are of no value. They tried to make money by giving tours and even build a large dance hall but ended up selling their claim back to the government.

Not much happened at Jewel Cave until around 1959 when a geology student by the name of Dwight Deal became interested in the cave. He enlisted the help of two climbers, Herb and Jan Conn. At first the Conns had very little interest in caving. They were climbers. Jan Conn was the first female to free climb Devils Tower, but once Herb and Jan entered the cave they fell in love with it. They spent 20 years of their lives exploring and mapping Jewel Cave. They are responsible for over 65 miles of the 154 miles that have been mapped over the years. (cave explorers - http://www.nps.gov/jeca/naturescience/caveexplorers.htm). The Conns are responsible for the Scenic Tour which is the most popular tour at the cave and takes about an hour and 20 minutes.

One fascinating aspect of the Conn’s story is rarely discussed. Herb and Jan Conn lived a modest lifestyle so that they could do what they really loved to do, go caving. When you find something that you love to do and that makes you happy, you should do it. Don’t be obsessive or irresponsible but take time to enjoy yourself. Maybe it will be caving and perhaps that will bring you to Jewel Cave to experience what the Conns and others have experienced.